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By Anitra Brown, About.com Guide to Spas since 2004

Caution on Home Microdermabrasion Kits

Sunday April 2, 2006
Microdermabrasion is one of the most popular treatments at medical spas and many day spas. It's highly effective but expensive at at least $100 a pop – with a series of four to six usually recommended before you switch to ongoing maintenance. No wonder big consumer product companies are cashing in with $25-$30 home microdermabrasion kits. But these home kits are "a crime to the skin,” according to my esthetics teacher, a highly trained medical esthetician who has an advanced degree in organic chemistry.

In the hands of a trained professional, microdermabrasion is a highly effective means of improving the appearance of the skin. It uses a powerful machine to mechanically spray microcrystals of aluminum oxide or corundum powder across the skin’s surface, removing the dead skin cells.

But these home kits take aluminum oxide crystals, which are second only to diamonds in their hardness, and mix them in a cream that enlarges the pores and literally invites the crystals into the skin, according to my teacher. The home treatments actually clog pores, prevent the skin from breathing and create pimples and breakouts rather than making your skin better.

So my advice is, if you want to exfoliate at home, use a very gentle scrub that your esthetician recommends. Just stay away from the $25 microdermabrasion kits. They're no bargain.

Comments

April 5, 2006 at 10:34 am
(1) Victoria says:

According to my dermatologist, a good scrub with a natural soap and terry cloth, exfoliates plenty, removing dead skin and cleansing all pores. He then recommends following with a toner and a natural lotion that is free from perfumes, oils, and artificial fillers (polymers , etc.)

May 29, 2006 at 10:46 am
(2) JL says:

This is a great article except the skin does not really “BREATHE”. Being the largest organ, the skin does many things but it has no lungs. It excretes, absorbs and gets its oxygen from the blood - not from outside air.

Also from Victoria - check the pH of that natural soap. Natural means nothing if the pH is high and strips the oil from the skin. The skin tends to rebound the oil if it is stripped with that squeaky clean feel. Terry cloth harbors bacteria so use it only once and use clorox in the wash.

As we age or have other reasons, our skin sometimes does not shed the dead cells as fast as we need them to. Besides microdermabrasion we can use enzymes to dissolve just the dead cells to remove the barrier and fruit acids to dissolve the glue that holds them together. When the cell turnover is increased the fibroblasts in the dermis create new collagen and elastin in our old, wrinkling skin. The only caution I can give is don’t over do it.

An aesthetic instructor from Texas

January 12, 2007 at 7:44 am
(3) Toni says:

Mary Kay Cosmetics, has a wonderful 2-step mircordermabrasion that costs only $55 for the 2 step process and is good for 30 - 36 applications…..it contains the aluminum oxide crystas in the treatment step #1, then a soothing serum that not only smoothes but soothes the skin after the microderm step one treatment.

Contact me at: www.MaryKay.com/tbond61 for more information.

April 27, 2007 at 7:59 pm
(4) Fernando says:

Anitra, thanks for your article (I’m reading it a year after it was posted)

However, I don’t agree with your teacher completely. It is true that a $30-$40 kit won’t be the same as a proffesional treatment but I have a hard time believing that those kits will actually make the skin worse. I don’t buy that all. There has been an increased mass demand for these kits and I don’t think they’d sell as well if they made the skin worse.

Not to be too cynical, but it sounds like your teacher is a bit biased against a product that obviously takes away from business. If he/she wants to be taken seriously, they should cite credible research.

Thanks!

Fernando

January 3, 2008 at 10:30 pm
(5) Diana says:

I have to agree with Fernando. Sounds a little biased to me too. Spa Sentiments has a complete kit for about $70. The hand held buffer rotates instead of just vibrating like most places sell.

Plus, their cream contains a high grade sea salt which they claim “better controls the uniformity and size of the crystal which prevents skin scratches or damage. We don’t use aluminum oxide crystals in our microdermabrasion cream because they can clog pores as well as inflame and irritate the skin.”

They also claim that their “cream was tested with a very well known facial plastic surgeon in Naples, Florida.”

In addition, they also have a full 90 day money back guarantee if you aren’t satisfied with the results so they must be pretty confident in their product!

* I copied the quotes from their home microdermabrasion kit webpage at: http://www.spasentiments.com/home-microdermabrasion-kit-p/home-microdermabrasion-kit.htm

Diana

February 24, 2008 at 9:05 pm
(6) Melanie says:

You can buy the actual microdermabrasion crystals (aluminum oxide) found in the creams/kits and they sell for a fraction of the price. They are Ok to use with plain water or your usual cleanser. They are also safe for use on the body as an exfoliant with either plain water or your usual body wash.

I don’t know if they sell them in stores, but you can get them online (ebay).

I’ve been using them religiously for more than 3 years now and I couldn’t be without them…. I saved a buttload of money too. The MK treatments are $55, I believe, and you can get a 2 oz. jar of crystals (probably more than what is found in a MK, Loreal or Neutrogena kit) for approximately $7!

March 28, 2008 at 12:19 pm
(7) Laura says:

I am very happy with the result of home MK. I used Dr. Denese’s MK (with aluminum oxide crystals)and Pond’s and both gave me very good result without any side effect at all. Skin thickness is one of the symbole of young skin. If Microdermbrasion can actually increase skin thickness, that’s exactly what we want.

September 5, 2008 at 6:09 am
(8) Khrystle says:

Does anyone know if microdermabrasion treatments (whether they are administered at home or in a spa) help to reduce the appearance of pimple blemishes / scars?

October 5, 2008 at 6:24 pm
(9) Hilary says:

Re: Khrystle

If your looking for a OTC MK, or a professional MK for the reason of acne / scar treatment. Your looking at the wrong solution. A chemical peel or CO2 laser is often necessary to remove acne scars and lesions.

If you cannot afford CO2 then I suggest you try home based chemical peel kits with TCA (10 to 15%). I have had tremendous success with at home TCA kits, just be sure to find a reputable distributor.

Good luck!

December 22, 2008 at 12:48 pm
(10) MD says:

The problem in dermatology is the lack of rigorous science to suport claims of effectiveness. Good luck finding any blinded, randomized, controlled outdome studies demonstrating efficacy for any over the counter dermatalogic….

April 20, 2009 at 3:47 pm
(11) Grace says:

What do information do you have regarding this particular machine (www.crystalift.com). Ebay also sell other machines but there listed as 2 in 1, 3 in 2. etc. Pls advice.

June 23, 2009 at 10:52 am
(12) Laura says:

I use crystalift on my blackheads and it’s works great. I’ve also noticed that my pores are smaller. I like that the crystals are made of baking soda instead of the aluminum in so many microderm kits. Since I used to pay $125 for professional treatments this machine is truly the same thing…and the results are only getting better.

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