• Waitangi National Reserve

• Kerikeri Mission House and Stone Store

• Rewa's Village 

Waitangi National Reserve

The Waitangi National Reserve in Paihia, Bay of Islands, New Zealand is the location where the Maori agreed to allow the British to govern New Zealand by way of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. On its 506 hectares are a Visitor Center, Treaty House, Maori Meeting House (Whare Runanga), Maori Canoes, recreational areas, tidal estuary, mangrove forest, coastline, and bush.

What really made the history come alive for us was a tour by Kena Rameka Alexander, Director of Culture North and his wife, Lenna. Both Maori, they provided and interesting perspective to the area's history. Kena started with a long greeting in Maori which paid respect to his ancestors and ours. The greeting ended with pressing noses (to share the breath of life) which symbolizes moving together as one person. Once the greeting was complete, we could then speak more informally. 

The Maori came to New Zealand over 1000 years ago from Hawaiki by way of a waka (long canoe). They call New Zealand the Land of the Long White Cloud. Some of the Maori were fierce warriors who practiced cannibalism. Shortly after Europeans came to New Zealand, some French ate fish they caught from sacred waters where Maori had died. The Maori were offended, killed the French, and ate them. The French retaliated by killing hundreds of Maori. The European/Maori relations were strained and violent until the Treaty of Waitangi. 

Here are some of the interesting things Kena told us about the Maori:

• The legend of Maui (half god, half man): Maui went fishing with a magic fish hook. He went fishing in his canoe (The South Island) and caught a fish which took many days to land (New Zealand's North Island). 

• Maori means people of the land. 

• Maori is a culture, not a religion.

• Most Maori carvings of people have three fingers symbolizing either air, earth, and water (sustains life) or birth, life, and death.

• The Maori know their genealogy for 2000 years. They originated from Hawaiki near Tahiti. 

• The  waka (war canoes) were as large as 45 yards long. Some had double hulls and sails. 

• Maori are identified by name, marae, mountain, river, tribe and subtribe.

• The moko (tattoos) are sliced or chiseled into the face. The deeper they are, the more strength and depth of character the owner possesses. The tattoos indicate tribal ancestry and appear on the entire male face. Tattoos on women are limited to the lips and chin and also indicate tribal ancestry. Black lips were a sign of beauty.  While tattoos fell out of favor, some young Maori are now getting them again.

• Just one generation ago, they were punished if they spoke Maori. Now Maori total immersion language schools are offered.

• Tribes may petition to have their land returned. Some land has been returned to the Maori. 

Kena and his wife both wore hei matau (fish hook) necklaces. The fish hook has its roots in the Maori fishing traditions. It symbolizes determination, safety over water, perseverance, strength, courage, provision and prosperity. Another common symbol is the koru (fern frond spiral) which symbolizes new life, new beginnings, growth, tranquility, harmony and peace. The two symbols are often combined.

The Treaty of Waitangi
Excerpt From Waitangi National Reserve Booklet:

"The Bay of Islands was an important area of early Polynesian settlement in New Zealand. It was also the scene of contact with the early European explorers, including James Cook, Marion Du Fresne and Dumont D'Urville, all of whom stopped here. Whaling in the South Pacific brought ships to the Bay of Islands. Early whalers and sealers traded with the Maori and Kororareka (Russell) became the centre of trade in New Zealand. The first mission station was set up by Reverend Samuel Marsden in 1815 and by the 1830' s there were as many as one hundred and fifty ships calling into the Bay of Islands. Muskets eventually became a major item of trade and conflicts broke out at Kororareka between Maori and Europeans, between whalers, seamen and missionaries. Kororareka became known as the "Hell Hole of the Pacific". In 1832 James Busby was appointed as British Resident, to protect British commerce and put an end to the outrages perpetrated by British subjects against the Maori. Under his guidance, twenty-five northern chiefs and Europeans met at Waitangi and chose the country's first flag. The following year, alarmed at the news that a Frenchman had bought 40,000 acres of land in the Bay of Islands, Busby organized 35 chiefs to sign a declaration of independence to prevent further foreign intrusion. Lawlessness and land disputes were becoming commonplace when Captain William Hobson sailed to New Zealand in 1837, to suppress an armed clash between settlers and Maori. He returned in January 1840 as Lieutenant-Governor and assisted by Busby and the Reverend Henry Williams, drafted the Treaty. On February 5, 1840 Hobson addressed a large gathering of Maori chiefs, assembled by missionaries at Busby's home. They debated the question of accepting the Queen's governorship, the chiefs retiring across the river that night to continue their debate. The following day Hone Heke became the first of 46 chiefs to sign the Treaty of Waitangi. Missionaries and officials carried the Treaty around the country so that over 500 Maori leaders could add their mark to the document. The Maori people ceded their governorship to the Queen and she in return guaranteed them the possession of their lands, forests, fisheries and other valuable property they possessed. The chiefs yielded to the Queen the sole right of purchasing their lands. They were granted the full rights and privileges of British subjects. On 21 May 1840, Hobson proclaimed governorship over the whole of New Zealand."

Kerikeri Mission House and Stone Store

The Mission House, built to house the Rev. John Buttler in 1821-22, is New Zealand's oldest standing European building. It is the sole survivor of the Musket Wars of the 1820's. In 1974, it was presented to the New Zealand Historic Places Trust.

The Stone Store was built in 1832-36. Designed by Wesleyan missionary John Hobbs and built by an ex-convict stonemason from New South Wales. It was meant to house mission supplies and wheat from the mission farm at Te Waimte. Wheat failed and it served as a kauri gum trading store. From 1929 it served as a general store until 1976 when it was bought by the New Zealand Historic Places Trust.

Rewa's Village

Just across the single lane bridge from the Stone Store and Mission House is the path to Rainbow Falls and Rewa's Village. The village was built in 1969 by community effort to save the area from development. It was later incorporated into an historic park. It is a reconstructed kainga such at the Maori would have occupied when the missionaries first came to the area.

Living Maori Village Experience in Rotorua

Waitangi Treaty House, completed in 1834, is one of New Zealand's oldest surviving buildings. It was prefabricated in Australia.

The Whare Runanga (Meeting House) and marae (grassed area in front) form
the basis of Maori culture and society .
The Whare Runanga is a symbol of tribal
prestige and a monument to the tribe's
ancestors. The Whare Runanga is a house of Peace. Fiery debates can take place within, but all anger must be left in the house.

The large canoe (35 yards long) was carved from three massive kauri trees. It was the same kind as the one that originally carried the Maori from Haiwiki and can carry 140 people. These canoes are  launched each
year for the ceremonial commemoration
of the signing of the Waitangi Treaty.

Mauri Guide, Kena and his wife, Lenna, sing as part of the welcome ceremony.

Waitangi Treaty House Grounds

Kerikeri Mission House

Stone Store
Cars wait to cross single lane bridge

Pataka (communal raised storehouse)
at Rewa's Village

Kaumatua (chief's) house 
at Rewa's Village