I was on my way to a "Perfect Day" at the award-winning* Oriental Spa at the award-winning* Oriental, Bangkok hotel. I was looking forward to seeing the former residence of literary greats Joseph Conrad, Somerset Maugham, Noel Coward, and James Michener (among others). I was also curious to see what made this property stand out from the crowd. The taxi turned down an alley barely wide enough for two cars to pass. We drove a block or so toward the river and turned right into the hotel's driveway. Banners announced the hotel's 125th anniversary as we pulled up to the entrance. I was greeted at the door by a pleasant Thai woman who asked, "May I help you, Madame?" I told her I had an appointment at the spa. She said the spa was located across the river and she would show me where to catch the ferry which runs regularly every 5-10 minutes between the hotel and the complex where the Sala Rim Naam Restaurant, Thai Culture Programme, Thai Cooking School, and Oriental Spa are located. She escorted me through the hotel lobby and Author's Lounge and out to the terrace alongside the Chao Phya River. After the short ferry ride across the busy river, I wandered past the interesting mix of colonial-style and Thai-style buildings to the back of the property where the spa is located. With every step, the lush plants, placid water, and quiet increasingly enveloped me with calm and isolated me from the city beyond. Spa magic had cast its spell before I even opened the door.

The Oriental Spa building is styled like a traditional Thai house finished in golden teak wood. I stepped across the threshold and was greeted by a wonderful aroma of lemongrass and other unidentified Thai herbs. I left my shoes next to the others by the door (a Thai tradition), and checked in at the registration desk. A very tired looking gentleman had just finished making arrangements for a Jet Lag Massage. If he stayed awake for the whole treatment, I'm sure he enjoyed it. My treatment, "The Perfect Day," required me to make a choice between a Papaya Body Polish and a Oriental Body Glow. I chose the latter. I was also asked if I had a preference for lunch. Both Thai & Western spa cuisine are offered. I chose Thai.

With those difficult decisions behind me, I was led to a lovely room that was to be mine for the better part of the next five hours. The room - suite, really - was finished in teak wood, had a large closet with a safe, bathroom, vanity area, steam/jet shower, and a raised platform with a thin mat on it. I was asked to change into a robe and slippers and leave my things in the closet. I had time to take a shower if I wanted one. I did. When I finished, my therapist, Ms. Nirin, came in and asked me to lie on the mat. She rubbed a gooey mixture of honey and Thai herbs all over my body to exfoliate the skin. The aroma was rich and appealing but unfamiliar. I showered off, noted how soft my skin felt, and returned to the mat which had fresh sheets on it. Ms. Nirin then gave me a superb massage that ended with special attention to the feet. Time felt suspended, but I had already passed two of my five hours. For a change of scenery and more appropriate equipment, Ms. Nirin escorted me to another room for my facial. She examined my skin and chose the appropriate facial using Thalgo products. Another hour blissfully slipped by. It was now time for lunch and I returned to "my" room where a tray of food had been brought in. The menu consisted of :

• Poo Ja Yaang - Grilled herbal crabmeat & minced chicken served with lemongrass sauce (76 calories, 1 fat pt)
• Gaeng Liang Paag Gub Pla - Seasonal vegetable and fish soup flavored with fragrant herbs (baby corn, fish, greens, mushroom, green beans) (119 calories, 1 fat pt)
• Gaeng Phed Gai Gub Phag - Red chicken and garden vegetable curry (193 calories, 7 fat pt)
• Khow Hom-Mali - Steamed jasmine rice (52 calories, 1 fat pt)
• Polamai Sod - Carved tropical fruits (melons & pineapple) (29 calories, 1 fat pt)

The food was quite spicy, especially the curry, but very flavorful and filling. I had a steam, then got dressed. Ms. Nirin escorted me to a chair in an open area. She pulled up a small stool and gave me a manicure. No high tech nail stations here. I alternatively balanced a bowl of water on my lap for one hand to soak in while Ms. Nirin worked on the other hand. I thought it would be a good time for a Thai language lesson. I'm afraid the only phrases I remember are Sawadee Kha (hello - spoken by a female) and Khawb Khun Kha (thank you - spoken by a female). That was the end of my "Perfect Day." And it was a perfect day. Khawb Khun Kha to Ms. Nirin and the Oriental Spa.

***

The Oriental Spa gives the appearance of being a long-standing Bangkok institution. In reality, it is relatively new - opening in September 1993. It was the first spa in Thailand. Thailand was late coming on the spa scene. The Oriental took time to study the best of what the rest of the world had to offer before creating their own spa. Privacy is emphasized. There are ten standard suites like the one I was in, three deluxe suites, the Oriental Suite, three facial rooms, two hydrotherapy rooms, and a manicure/pedicure area. In addition to the lovely facility, The Oriental Spa's extensive service menu blends ancient Thai herbal remedies and modern European treatments. According to Spa, Health & Fitness Manager, Orawan Choeyso90awat, skilled staff is key to the Oriental Spa's success. The 20+ therapists receive ongoing training. Ms. Orawan also mentioned that the spa was being freshened up with new floors and paint. She is looking into expanding the spa hours by opening earlier.

The Oriental Spa's clientele is mostly leisure with many honeymooners and guests celebrating anniversaries. Fifty percent of its visitors are men. It has been visited by a number of well-known people from around the world - HRH Crown Prince Frederick, George Bush, Earl Spencer, Boris Becker, Elizabeth Taylor, Pierce Brosnan, and Goldie Hawn,.

In addition to the spa, The Oriental offers personalized exercise programs, a gym with advanced equipment, steam and Finnish sauna, two open-air tennis courts, two air-conditioned squash courts, two table tennis tables, a jogging track, private shower, changing and cloak rooms, hair dryers, aerobic dance classes, and personal lockers.