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I anticipated the flight from Bangkok to Chiang Mai would be on a little commuter plane, but it turned out to be a fully-booked 747-ish jet. Even though the flight took just over an hour, Thai Airways had time to serve breakfast. It was a pleasant start to our journey to The Regent Chiang Mai. I arranged for The Regent to pick us up at the airport. Our driver was waiting for us at the terminal, loaded our luggage in the van, and offered us much-appreciated cool washcloths and bottled water. During the half-hour ride from the city to the hilly countryside, we noted how the pace of life in Chiang Mai seemed slower than in Bangkok. We saw tuk-tuks, rickshaws, and trucks with wooden benches in the truck bed that served as buses. Our driver told us that there are no taxis in Chiang Mai and we didn't see any. I was glad I had arranged for the van. Getting our luggage to the hotel would have been a challenge without it. The sight and scent of fresh flowers greeted us as we entered the open-air lobby of The Regent Chiang Mai. We were given necklaces of fresh jasmine and invited to sit and enjoy a refreshing fruit drink and more cool washcloths while we checked in. A short while later, we were in our Pavilion Suites - my son and daughter in the lower suite and my husband and I in the upper suite. Each suite had a lovely sleeping area, a separate dressing area, a luxurious deep soaking tub overlooking a private garden, and an outdoor sala (covered gazebo) that overlooked the beautiful property and the mountains beyond. It was a perfect place to stretch out and relax. The overhead fan made it quite pleasant even in the heat of the day. We enjoyed having breakfast there one morning. The 77-suite resort was designed like a traditional Thai village centered around a working rice paddy (the rice is donated to charity). There are 64 750 square-foot Pavilion Suites and 13 Residence Suites ranging from 350 to 3,767 square feet available in combinations of one, two and three bedrooms with a private pool on the lower level. The work of the ever-present team of gardeners on the landscape designed by Bensley Design Studios, Bangkok is evident - the grounds are immaculate and lush with over 200 varieties of plants and trees. Paths that wind through the property are lined with spirit house-styled lights. At night glowing lanterns seem to magically float overhead. The main pool and fitness center are centrally located. In the fitness center building, there are separate womens' and mens' locker rooms with saunas as well as a co-ed herbal steam room and outdoor whirlpool. These facilities are separate from the spa - a perfect arrangement in my opinion. The fitness center offers classes in low impact aerobics, body toning, stretching, yoga, and meditation. There are two tennis courts on site, complementary mountain bikes, and golf nearby. Lanna literally means "the land of a million rice fields" and the Lanna style of architecture and design is unique to that area of Thailand. The Lanna Spa opened in December 1999 in a magnificent 9,000 square foot three-story building at the far end of the Residence Suites area of the resort. The Regent calls the Lanna Spa "a temple of harmony for the body, mind and soul." They are not exaggerating. Other appropriate adjectives include romantic, indulgent, exclusive, and private. Mr. Lek Bunnag of Bunnag Architects of Bangkok, who did the architectural design and interiors, based The Lanna Spa's design on several ancient Thai Lanna Temples in the north. The design concept in creating the Lanna Spa was to provide a luxurious facility with total privacy for clients while at the same time incorporating both nature and culture and carefully blending the spa into the resort's existing environment. To say they met their goal is an understatement. Crossing the bridge to get to the spa entrance is like crossing from one fantasy world to another. This sumptuous sanctuary has seven spacious treatment suites that offer total privacy for individuals or couples. In order to give each suite an individual identity, Lek chose a clearly defined room-type of architecture in which he then created "diminishing perspective", giving visual depth inside each treatment suite with a design inspired from the gates of Wat Phumin (the most beautiful and distinctive Lanna temple in the Nan province, 300 kms from Chiang Mai). Six of the suites feature soaking tubs on semi-enclosed salas. Five of the suites have private herbal aromatherapy steam rooms. Two of the suites feature double rain shower massage tables. The palatial Lann Chang Suite in the penthouse has a sunken bath in a turret with stunning views of the resort and Doi Suthep and Doi Pui mountain ranges. The Prae Garden Suite on the lower level has Thai style massage beds next to a fireplace and its own private pool. The decor is rich, luxurious, and sumptuous. Treatments are inspired by ancient Thai rituals using herbs, spices and aromatic oils sourced from traditional rural origins. It is an extraordinary spa and my favorite to date. My entire family decided to have spa treatments. My son and husband worked out at the fitness center then each chose an Aromatic Massage using Nutmeg Oil. This oil from southern Thailand is used for muscular ailments and muscle stimulation, has a warm, spicy fragrance, and relieves fatigue. My daughter chose an Aromatic Massage with Lemongrass Oil. It has a fresh grassy citrus fragrance and is refreshing and stimulating. I had the three-hour Lanna Sampler which includes Thai Herbal Steam, Traditional Thai Massage, Lanna Herbal Facial, and Ginger and Honey Elixir. I entered the suite and was captivated by the decor. I was led to a changing room where I changed into a robe. I then entered the steam room for the Thai Herbal Steam. My initial thoughts were along these lines...are you insane?...this steamy climate is the last place you need a steam bath! But I soon relaxed and enjoyed the rich, exotic fragrance and the steam. I stepped out for a break at 10 minute intervals but got right back in. I then changed into at loose-fitting outfit called a "choot nourd" to wear during the Traditional Thai Massage (nuat paen boran) that followed. I liked the choot nourd so much, I later bought one to take home. Thai massage is my favorite spa treatment. I always feel positively energized after having one. This time was no exception. My husband and I shared the same suite. Our massages ended at the same time and we relaxed and recovered on a large sofa that overlooked a private garden while we sipped ginger and honey elixir. He left and I returned to the table for at Lanna Herbal Facial that left my skin feeling fresh and soft. The whole experience was exceptional. The rest of my family enjoyed their treatments as well. It was my son's first massage. What a place to be introduced to the world of spas! Chiang Mai is a center for shopping and we could not resist. The Regent's concierge, Mr. Pratya, was extremely helpful in helping us fit as much as we could into our tight schedule. One night we took the complementary shuttle from The Regent to the Night Market, a bazaar full of sights, sounds, and treasures. One day we used The Regent's chauffeur service and shopped along Sankampaeng Road where many handicraft factories are located. The demonstrations alone are worth the trip. We saw how silk, umbrellas, and Sa paper (course decorative paper, some with flower petals imbedded in it) are made and watched woodcarvers make teak and rosewood furniture. We did not get to the silverware, celadon, or lacquerware factories. Another day we again hired the van to take us to the elephant camp to see them bathe and demonstrate how they worked (although logging is no longer allowed in Thailand). The trip ended with a ride on an elephant through the jungle. We did not have time to visit any of the 300+ wats in Chiang Mai. Another of many, many reasons to return...
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