There is nothing quite so thrilling as shopping for a full day at the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul and loading up on spices, pashminas and lovely rugs. But it is hard on the feet, and you will feel like you need a good scrub after the Bazaar to feel clean again.
With this in mind, I set off to a traditional Turkish bath, or hammam, to recover from my first day in Istanbul. Be warned! Taking your first plunge into a Turkish bath can be a daunting experience. I visited Cagaloglu Hamam, one of the more famous hammams in the city. It is nearly 270 years old and considered one of the best for a real Turkish massage, steam bath and for tea at the old marble café-bar.
What Happens In a Hammam
Upon entering the hammam, you will find yourself in a dressing room, or camekan, which is surrounded by private cubicles where you dress. Your attendant will give you a cotton wrap, or pestemal, and a pair of slippers, or terlik, along with a key to your cubicle.
Once you have removed all your clothing and wrapped the cotton cloth around you sarong style like a skirt, you are ready to go.
Your attendant will ask you if you need a soap, towel or shampoo. I was advised to bring my own and was glad to do so – some baths do offer them, but they are expensive and probably not high quality.
My attendant did not speak much English so communicating what I would like – a bath and massage, or just bath was fun. I was given the choice of bathing myself or receiving a scrub, or massage. I said yes to all options!
Working Up A Sweat In a Turkish Bath
I was taken to a warm, humid room with a raised stone platform (goebektas) in the center, surrounded by bathing alcoves, in pretty coloured quartz tiles. The tiles remove static electricity from the air, and help to relax the mind and body. The light, diffused through glass in the ceiling is soft and relaxing.
I lay on the platform, (but you can sit if you prefer) which is heated, and worked up a sweat. My attendant then lead me to one of the basins, and then I was scrubbed cleaner than I ever have been, and again. The attendant used a coarse mitt to remove layers of dead skin, then came the soap. She used a lacy cloth, like an icing bag, then blew through it to create bubbles. I was covered from head to toe with white frothy bubbles. My hair was piled high, a bit like Marge Simpson’s and I enjoyed a wonderful scalp massage.
Next, I was doused in warm water again and my attendant disappeared. I later learned that was to allow me to clean my private areas myself. Total nudity is fine here, but some women wore underwear.
$20 For a Turkish Scrub and Massage
Now it was time for the massage! Back to the stone platform and she pummeled me, quite roughly but it felt good. After the massage I was handed towels and then taken to the cold room, to cool down, and to drink tea.
After my rest, it was time to head back to the cubicle to get dressed. Although a scrub and massage generally takes an hour and a half, you can take as much time as you need. It's about $20 for a scrub and massage.
Not everyone is keen for the real Turkish bath experience and to struggle with communicating what you would like. I am told at some tourist hammams, cleanliness can also be an issue.
Five-Star Hotels Have Hammams
Luckily several five-star hotels have hammams that offer a traditional experience that is relaxed, luxurious and comfortable enough for Western tastes. Some even have special bridal hammam ceremonies for the bride and her friends. The Laveda Spa at the Ritz Carlton, Istanbul has its own hammam and offers a blissful experience. First, you are exfoliated with kese, a soft massage with lavender, tea, chamomile or olive oil soap.
Forget about asking for a bathing cap to keep your blowout. The hair wash is one of the best parts, with hair balsam, and scalp massage. For total indulgence, try the Sultans Royal Six Hands massage, applied by three trained artists.
If it is traditional Turkish bath you are looking for, an exfoliation and cleaning like no other, I would recommend the more luxurious hammams at five star hotels like the Ritz-Carlton.
While the massage at Cagaloglu Hamami was a bit rough, but you must not miss taking a Turkish bath when in Istanbul, especially after a long, hot day of sightseeing to energize the muscles.
Julie Earle-Levine is a New York City-based freelance writer whose work appears in the Weekend Financial Times, Sunday Times of London, Travel + Leisure and Saveur.
