I didn't know what expect from Rancho de los Caballeros, a historic Arizona dude ranch that's been around since the 1940s and recently added a spa. I knew was there would be horses involved -- “caballeros" means cowboys in Spanish, after all.
Little did I know how restorative a ride through the open Sonoran desert would be.
At Rancho de los Caballeros, you'll feel like you've stepped into a time machine as you lope your pony through the scenic Sonoran desert -- some 20,000 acres of open land between the ranch's holdings and public lands.
Saddle Up At A Historic Guest Ranch
Rancho de los Caballeros is right outside the old mining town of Wickenburg, an hour and a half northwest of the Phoenix airport. This family-friendly resort has 79 guest rooms grouped in tile-roof casitas, and each room has a southern facing patio and Mexican-style painted furniture.
The thing you notice most here is the profound sense of peace and quiet. You don't even hear road sounds, just the call of mourning doves and red winged blackbirds.
Rancho de los Caballeros is still owned by the same family that started it as a luxury guest ranch back in 1948, and it has a retro feel that gives the place its magic. Many families have been coming back for ten or twenty years. “Once we found this place, we decided why go anywhere else?"one regular said to me.
It helps if you like horseback riding. Every morning and afternoon you can saddle up for two hour rides ($35-$42) through the gorgeous, hilly desert terrain. What's unusual is that the rides are tailored for all levels, from sedate walk-only groups to the folks who want a fast lope down a sandy wash.
I was getting over a cold so I went with the walk-only group -- just three of us and a wrangler named Joe who pointed out the flowering turpentine bush and desert wrens and the brilliant orange poppies that had just come into bloom on a hillside. It was a brilliant, sunny day, and to be moving so slowly through such a beautiful landscape was my idea of heaven.
I wasn't there for the "team penning" a timed competition where you work cattle on horseback, but heard it's great fun. Meanwhile, golfers love the challenging 18-hole course, a jewel surrounded by rugged desert.
A Charming Desert Spa
Rancho de los Caballeros converted a 1940s adobe-style ranch house and guest quarters into a spa with 8 beautiful, light-filled treatment rooms. There's plenty of western art and a 40-foot stone labyrinth out back in a quiet, peaceful desert setting. But they've kept the spa simple -- no locker rooms, no sauna, no steam, no fancy equipment. They don't even give you a robe and slippers when you check in, but have you disrobe in the treatment room
My therapist, Keli Conly, started my 90-minute Desert Oasis Massage ($165) by cupping her hands beneath my nose with an aromatherapy oil of mango, sweet lime and flower essences that smelled wonderful. She was warm and friendly and gave me a nice firm massage that was just what I needed that day. She felt free to add her own touches, like using a hot steam towel on my back and feet, which felt great. And I loved the quiet and filtered light of the treatment room, a refreshing change after too much time in "spa caves."
There are robes in the rooms, and I asked for one so I could sit on the back patio and rest. I sat there for a good long while, watching the sun sink slowly in the west (so to speak). Even though there was a bit of chatter at the spa desk and some comings and goings, I was very much at peace.
The spa has two couples rooms, one with a big claw foot tub where two people can cozy up for the “Home Sweet Home Milk Bath"($45 for 30 minutes) before a massage. All of the treatment rooms have showers if you're getting a scrub, but I would arrive freshly showered so you don't have to use treatment time getting cleaned up.
There's a lawn where you can arrange for private yoga instruction or classes, but working out is not the focus here. There's no gym, yoga studio, meditation classes, etc. If you want some exercise, saddle up!
Boot Branding and Wranglers
Back in my guest room, I wished I had internet access (If had to go to the main building to get it) and more counter space in my bathroom, but I felt that was a small price to pay for staying at such a historic gem.
On Monday nights you can get your boots branded by the blazing fire in the living room, and guests actually get to know each other. All meals are included, and the dazzling display of dozens of home-made cookies at the lunch buffet had me stuffing my pockets. Veteran wrangler Loal Jacobson is always ready with a joke or some homespun piece of wisdom. “It takes a good woman to organize you anyway," I overheard him saying to some fellow who was mildly complaining about his wife's tendency to schedule him. Loal is just one more reason Rancho de los Caballeros is a unique experience.
The Bottom Line: I give the ranch five stars for charm, the spa three stars for a tranquil environment and good basic treatments. If you want lots of exercise classes, fancy spa facilities, and spa cuisine, this is not the spa for you. But if you like to ride the trails, stay at a place with real character (and characters) and want to spend some time in the open desert, there's no place better.
The Spa At Rancho de los Caballeros at a Glance
- Type of Spa: resort spa
- Spa open to non-guests: yes
- Season: Ranch and spa open mid-October through mid-May
- Special features: Family-friendly, with free Caballeros Kids Program for children age 5 to 12. Horseback rides extra.
- Address: 1551 S. Vulture Mine Road, Wickenburg, Arizona
- Room Rates: $400 -$616 (double occupancy). Includes three meals. Book Now.
- Room Reservations: 800-684-5030
- Spa Appointments: 928-684-5030.
- Website: Rancho de los Caballeros
As is common in the travel industry, the writer was provided with complimentary accommodations and treatments for the purpose of reviewing those services. While it has not influenced this review, About.com believes in full disclosure of all potential conflicts of interest. For more information, see our ethics policy.
